How to Build a Raised Deck with Wickes

how to build a raised deck .

A race deck is a great addition to any garden , especially if the ground is sloping or uneven .

A partly or fully raised deck is the perfect solution for those difficult to use outdoor spaces .

You'll find a full list of tools and materials you'll need at the end of this video .

When choosing where to build your deck .

Keep in mind factors such as shade and privacy .

If you decide to use a permanently shady spot , be prepared to clean and treat the wood once a year To preserve the timber from damp and prevent algae growth .

Avoid very wet areas completely .

It's best to plan your deck to scale on paper .

Try to be as accurate as possible with your measurements bearing in mind the size of deck boards you plan to use .

This will help limit cutting and wasting boards or bearers when planning a raised deck .

You should also bear in mind that any deck higher than 300 millimetres off the ground will require planning permission .

When building the deck , be sure to use structural treated timber and remember to treat all holes and cut ends of wood with two coats of preservative to start , measure and mark out the deck area using pegs and string line , then measure diagonally across from post to post .

If both the measurements are the same , then you know it's square , or you could use a set square .

To do this , you can then remove the turf and all vegetation from inside the area to a minimum depth of 50 millimetres .

Once the area has been dug , place a post into position in the corner of your frame and measure and mark out 100 millimetres from each face .

Remove this soil to a depth of 700 millimetres , being sure to look out for any cables or pipes as you go .

Once the soil has been removed , you should be left with a 300 by 300 millimetre square .

This is where you'll be adding the post Crete .

Repeat this for the other three corners .

Next , split a concrete block in two , using a brick bolster , then place a section of block into each of the holes , making sure they're firmly in place .

Take a length of post that is slightly longer than you need as you can cut it down later and place it into the hole .

Use small pieces of timber to create props that will hold the post in place until you're ready to post Crete and secure them to the joists with screws .

It's important that you keep checking the posts a level as you go .

Repeat this for all four corners .

Now it's time to pour post Crete or a concrete mix into the holes to make sure they're permanently fixed in place .

Ensure the posts remain truly vertical .

You also want to create a gentle slope away from the timber posts on all four sides to help rainwater run off and so prolong the life of the wood .

Leave the post Crete for around 20 minutes and then check it set .

Then remove the props .

Create a string line around the four corner posts to help you to mark and place the guides for the remaining posts .

To do this measure from post to post to find out where the centre point is , then measure and mark out your mid point before hammering a post marker into place .

Bear in mind that posts shouldn't be further apart than 1500 millimetres .

Repeat this until the five post markers are in place as you did with the corner post .

Dig out the holes to a depth of 700 millimetres and a width of 300 millimetres and place the concrete block into position .

It's now time to prepare the outer frame .

If you're on a slope , then always measure from the corner where the deck will be at its highest off the ground mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be .

Cut the outer frame joists to length .

Next , line up a piece of frame with your mark and temporarily secure it in place with a 64 millimetre deck .

Screw to ensure rainwater runs off your deck and away from the house , you need to allow for a slight fall in the level of the deck frame .

You should factor in a two millimetre fall for every metre .

Bear in mind this fall When checking the levels throughout the build , put your spirit level on top of the frame and lift until it's at the required level , and when it is , secure it to the other corner post line .

The next piece of frame up with the corner of the one you've secured and repeat this process for all four sides , then double check that Each side is level mark on the frame where the mid point of the post is , and use a set square to draw a straight line downwards .

Draw guide marks 40 millimetres from the top and 40 millimetres from the bottom of the frame .

Next , use a 40 millimetre flat wood drill bit to make countersunk holes around each of the marks before using an eight millimetre wood drill bit .

To drill pilot holes , hang a washer on the end of a 100 millimetre coach screw .

Insert it into the hole and hand tightened before securing it firmly in place with a 13 millimetre socket .

Repeat this on each of the other corners .

Next mark on the frame where the centre of your support posts will be positioned and repeat the process of marking and drilling the countersunk holes .

Put the post into position onto the concrete block , making sure it's level before clamping it into place .

You can now drill your pilot holes before securing the frame to the post with a washer and 100 millimetre .

Coach Screw as before , simply repeat this for all the posts on your outer frame , you can now add your centre post and support joists .

Bear in mind when measuring that .

These joists should run in the same direction as your deck boards .

Firstly , measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame at the opposite side and then cut a length of joist Accordingly .

Attach the joy to the post at each end and secure as you did to the outer frame .

Put the centre post into position .

Clamp in place and secure as you did the other posts .

Make sure the post is level before continuing .

Repeat this so the centre post is sandwiched between two sections of the support frame .

Once this is done , secure all the new posts with post Crete to trim the posts , rest the set square on top of the outer frame and mark a line on the wood of the exposed faces and then saw .

Repeat this process for all of the posts on your decking .

Remember to treat the cut ends as you go .

Next , Measure the distance between the central support joist and the outer frame and cut sections of joist to length .

Roll out your landscape fabric and cut it to size , making sure it's as snub to the post as possible .

It's best to overlap the fabric to ensure it covers all of the area that will be underneath the deck .

Pour gravel onto the landscaping fabric to help hold it in place and further prevent weed growth .

Smooth the gravel as you go .

It's now time to mark out the placing of your internal joists .

To do this , you should measure 400 millimetres from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line using a set square .

This line is the centre of where the first joist will be positioned .

Repeat this at 400 millimetres in down the length of the frame and add an extra joist .

If your final gap exceeds 400 millimetres , then extend your line downwards onto the side of the frame and mark .

Pilot holes 40 millimetres from the top and 40 millimetres from the bottom before drilling .

Using a two millimetre drill bit , secure the joist in your workbench and attach a joist hanger to each end , using 30 millimetre exterior screws to secure the joist to the frame .

Place it into position with the centre of the joist lining up with the 400 millimetre spacer mark .

Be sure the joist is flushed with the exterior frame and use an extra pair of hands or packers to keep it in place .

If needs be , drill two millimetre pilot holes , then secure using 100 millimetre external grade screws and the supplied socket bit .

When fixing the joist to an unexposed side of the frame , drill a skewed pilot hole on either side before securing skewed screws into position .

Once the joist is in place , secure the final 30 millimetre screws to the joist hangers .

Repeat this for the rest of the joists , making sure the top of the joist is flushed with the frame before securing .

Now it's time to measure out and prepare your noggins , bearing in mind that the distance between them should never exceed 1200 millimetres .

It's also easier to stagger your noggins so that you don't have to skew screws to attach them .

Mark out where you want your noggins to be , and measure the distance between your joists .

Then cut the noggins to size .

Put a noggin into position and draw a line that marks the centre of the noggin on each joist measure and mark 40 millimetres from the top and bottom on each side .

Drill your pilot holes before securing the noggin with 100 millimetre external screws , then repeat this process until all the noggins are in position .

Now that the frame of your decking is secure , it's time to build the steps we're going to use .

Premade step rises To do this .

Start by deciding where you want the steps to be positioned .

Bear in mind that they shouldn't be spaced more than 450 millimetres apart .

Hold each step in position and mark their edges onto the wood .

Measure the distance between the marks and the next step and cut sections of Joyce to the required lengths .

Then measure and mark out three evenly spaced sets of pilot holes .

Pump the sections into place .

Drill the pilot holes and secure with 2 100 millimetre screws .

At each end , your steps should be supported on solid and level ground .

Next , put your first step into position , making sure that it's flushed to both the top and the side of the frame .

Mark two evenly spaced pilot holes and then drill through the side of the step and into the joist .

Secure the step in place with countersunk 100 millimetre screws .

Repeat this process for any other exposed sides of the steps To secure unexposed sides .

Drill a skewed pilot hole on each side before skewing the 100 millimetre screws into position .

Drill a final screw through the support frame and into the back of each step , being careful to avoid the other screws that are already in place .

Now take an off cut of deck board and hold it next to the step to mark where the facial will go .

Use your set square to help mark a straight line to show its positioning .

Next , use a chalk line to extend the line you made across the width of the steps .

Measure from the far end of the deck to the chalk line and cut a deck board to length .

Put the cut deck board into position in line with the chalk .

We're going to be attaching facial boards to the decking so need to allow for an overhang when securing deck boards .

It's a good idea to pre drill all fixing points with a two millimetre bit to prevent boards from splitting .

And if you counter sync all drilled fixing points , you'll get a smoother finish .

Because this board is overhanging .

Screw through the third groove of the outside edge to ensure it's comfortably secured to the joist .

Fix with a 64 millimetre decking .

Screw when fixing the rest of the boards .

Always use the second groove in from either side to ensure the boards are straight secure with a single 64 millimetre screw in one end and then move to the opposite end and then back again .

Make sure to keep spaces even between adjacent boards .

Because timber expands and contracts with the changing weather , you should include a gap between five and eight millimetres .

Create a suitably sized spacer from an off cut of timber and use it to check .

The gap between boards is equal all the way along .

Once the boards are all laid , measure the gap between the steps and cut sections of joy to length .

These will act as additional support for your steps and can be staggered into position and secured like the previous noggins in the frame .

If your top step is like ours , then it won't need a noggin , as the overhang of the frame adds the necessary support .

When securing the boards to the steps , always secure the front faces of the steps .

First , measure the width of the step from the outer edge and cut a piece of deck board to length , making sure you allow for enough overhang on each end so that the board is flush with the FAA .

Then hold the board flush with the top of the step and pre drill your holes before securing with 64 millimetre deck screws into the second groove on each side .

Now it's time to secure the first part of the top board .

To do this , place the board flush with the board beneath and secure by drilling one screw into the second groove and one directly down and into the section of board below .

Depending on the steps you're building , you may have gaps that need filling as we do .

Start by measuring the gaps and marking the required size onto deck boards , remembering to subtract 10 millimetres to allow for the five millimetre expansion on either side , secure your board and use your chalk line to create a clear line , then carefully cut along the line using a jigsaw .

Once the sections are cut , put them into position and secure with deck screws into the centre of the board and the first groove , making sure the screws sit centrally into the frame of the step below .

Then repeat this .

For all the gaps , your steps are now complete , and it's time to add the facial boards measure and cut the length of board you need , then mark pilot holes into the second grooves at 50 millimetres from each end .

Repeat this at 600 millimetre intervals down the length of the facia .

Finally , attach with 64 millimetre decking screws and repeat this for all complete boards .

If , like us , you need to add an angled board because your garden is sloping , then start by attaching packers to the main joist frame .

This will give you something to secure the facia onto , then take an off cut of deck board and slide it underneath the top facia until it nearly makes contact with the ground .

Mark a line onto the top facia to show its position .

Then mark on the wood where the far end of your angled board will be and measure along to your line on the top facia .

Next , measure the distance between the end of the angled board and the ground .

When doing this , remove five millimetres as you don't want the board to be touching the ground at any point on your deck .

Board mark where the full board will end , where the angle will begin and where the angle will end .

Connect the marks where the angle will begin and end with a chalk line .

Then cut down this mark with a circular saw .

Secure the board to the Packers using 64 millimetre deck screws and repeat this process for all other angled boards .

Add gravel for an attractive finish and to age drainage around your decking .

Finally , if you want to add railings to your raised deck , then you can follow our step by step .

How to assemble Deck railings .

Video .

Your deck is now complete , so sit back .

Relax and admire your handiwork from your brand new decking .

Here is the list of tools you'll need to build your raised deck , and here are the materials you'll use , and this is the recommended safety equipment needed