How To Install Epoxy Over Old Countertops Ultimate Guide _ Stone Coat Countertops

We used our stone coat liquid epoxy to transform this old laminate kitchen .

Learn right now how to save thousands on your next project .

You can renew and resurface old countertops , tabletops desktops and more , we're gonna teach you every step of the way for free .

In this video , we cover every pro tip and trick that you need to know to transform any space class is in session .

And we've done the hard work for you capitalize on our years of experience of using our epoxy to transform old countertops .

You're gonna be able to mimic marble , natural stone .

You can even mimic quartz concrete , whatever you design .

We're gonna show you how to do rock face edges , smooth edges .

We're gonna teach you the undercoat process and more whether you have a new construction project or a remodel if you want to do a dirty pore or an exotic countertop , all of that is revealed right now , you can design on a dime , you can transform your colors you can do in place backsplash , learn to take your project from concept to complete , stay tuned .

Enjoy the video .

Remember when you subscribe to our channel , click on the red subscribe button and be sure to ring the bell .

So you get notified every time we have a new video .

Thanks again .

Do you have an old laminate countertop kitchen that you need to revive using stone coat countertop epoxy ?

We're gonna teach you to renew those old countertops in place using eight simple steps .

Let's get started .

Step one is prep .

First we're gonna move any bulky appliances that may be in our way .

Then we're going to mask the floor using paper .

We'll add plastic over the cabinets to protect them from any drips and then we'll finish by masking the walls .

This stuff is fun .

It's simple , but it's also important .

Don't make a mess and you won't stress in this particular case , we're going to change the old sink .

It's seeing better days .

So we're going to add a stainless steel sink by disconnecting it and putting a new one in place .

If you like your kitchen sink , you can leave that in place and mask it off .

Pro tip guys dry , fit your new sink before you install it .

That way you don't have any surprises after the countertops are complete .

This ensures a perfect fit guys .

Whenever you have painted cabinetry or finished cabinets start with delicate surface tape as your first run .

That way , when you add your plastic , you tape to that and when you de prep or take it off , it doesn't peel any paint .

We're using three mil plastic this is also three ft wide .

The countertops are three ft tall so it fits perfectly , tape that to the cabinet tops and tape it to the floor and you won't get any epoxy drips that get on the cabinets .

Ok .

It's time for our optional prep step .

I can either cut the existing backsplash off , nice and flush or I can leave the backsplash in place .

If I leave it in place , the epoxy , it's self leveling .

It wants to run downhill .

So what I'll need to do is come back about two hours after I've poured my surface and add a little bit of color into that backslash .

That way I retain color on the backsplash to match the counters .

It's a little bit more simple and a perfect match if you pour it nice and flat .

But it does require me to cut this off .

I'll bond over the gap between the wall and the countertop and I'll make new backlash to cover the old .

I like to do it this way .

It looks super professional and it's easy to do .

We're going to use one of two tools I can use a reciprocating saw or I can use a vibrating multi tool .

This is a plunge cut .

This will come at an angle , but it's super simple .

I'll use the saws all on my straight runs and my multi tool to plunge cut the corners .

I'll score the top of the back splash to cut any cawing .

So I don't peel the paint .

That's a pro tip .

When I'm done with this , I'm going to sweep up my sawdust mess and I'm ready for the next step .

This is back rod , back .

A rod is found at your local hardware store .

It's designed to be put around windows to block any drafts coming through .

It's also a great solution to fill the gap between the countertop and the wall pro tip .

When you're adding the Bondo to the back here , we're also going to Bondo this seam where the old laminate countertop came together that will make it seamless and it won't go through when you do your epoxy pore .

I'm mixing up enough Bondo to fill the gap between the countertop and the wall as well as cover any damage like scores from knives or burns .

I'm also going to cover the seam while I'm at it .

Now , if you're brand new to Bondo , be sure not to mix up more than you're comfortable with .

It has a short working time because I've done hundreds of kitchens .

I can move rather fast , but it's OK to break up the Bondo into multiple steps , just mix up enough to do what you're comfortable with and then move on .

The more hardener you use , the faster it sets up .

That's a pro tip .

I'm gonna use my handy masker to prep the back wall .

I'm going to be using different spray paint and additives .

So without worry during the project , that back wall will be masked off to make clean up a breeze .

Now , when you are prepping , you can use butcher paper , newspaper or anything to cover these different areas .

Remember every minute spent prepping and masking in the kitchen can save you a lot of time on the clean up .

So , take your time .

Have fun and prep it .

Right .

Step .

Number two is to clean and sand .

We're going to use T S P .

That's Trisodium phosphate .

We're gonna mix it with a little bit of warm water .

We'll scrub down the surfaces and then we'll sand with 60 grit to create a mechanical bond .

Follow the instructions on your D greaser .

We're going to use some elbow grease to get any grime off of these countertops .

So we get an excellent long term bond .

When we apply the bond though , we applied it heavy .

We're gonna sand any high points down using 60 grit and our random orbital sander .

We're also going to sand the laminate to create that mechanical bond .

Remember , your patchwork doesn't need to be perfectly smooth .

We're just trying to remove those high points .

Use 60 grid to sand that get it nice and flush .

You're ready to vacuum up the dust and move on to the next step .

Ok .

It's time to order .

How do you figure out your square footage ?

It's simple .

It's length times width , that's gonna equal your square foot .

For instance , this island is 3.5 ft by 2.5 ft .

You multiply that and you're going to get eight and three quarters that's eight and three quarters square feet .

Let's look at our L shaped countertop .

This has a sink cut out and it's basically going to be broken up into three separate pieces for ease of measuring .

Let me show you how I'm going to use my blue tape as my imaginary line .

So I really get easy measuring .

I'm simply gonna break this piece off .

So that's a separate countertop than this .

Now , and I'm gonna measure this section .

I'm gonna measure this section and finally the third section .

And then I'm also gonna add in a little bit for my backsplash .

Let me show you how easy that is on two ft by two ft .

That's gonna be four square feet .

Here , I'm three ft by two ft .

That's gonna be six square feet .

And here I'm two ft by two ft again , that's four square feet .

So I have 44 and six , that's 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 square feet .

Then I'm gonna do the backsplash .

I know I'm going to account for a six inch backsplash .

So I'll just get my linear footage .

So I come here , that's eight linear feet and that's four linear feet .

That's 12 linear feet .

And then I'm just going to divide that by two because it's six inches .

So that's gonna be an additional six square feet you see how easy it is to measure .

So get your tape measure out , break your ken up into simple squares and that's how you can get the square footage .

So you know what to order 91% isopropyl alcohol .

Basically rubbing alcohol makes a great cleaner as well as wiping up any excess dust .

Before we add the bonding primer .

It also removes epoxy from your tools .

And if you happen to have a drip somewhere , you don't want to jump to your Isopropyl alcohol .

It's a great solution for any mess up .

Step .

Number three is the bonding primer .

The bonding primer is only necessary when you're going over non porous surfaces such as laminate Coron and cultured marble .

If you're going to go over wood , you don't need to do this step .

You can go forward .

But because we are going over existing countertops , we're going to bonding primer that ensures a long lasting project .

This gives you a great chemical bond .

You simply roll it on like a layer of paint , let it dry and you're ready for the next step .

Remember , you only need a very thin coat thin to win on this process .

We're gonna add our color after this is set up , it's always good practice to use some masking tape on your rollers to remove any loose fibers .

This is a pro tip .

So you don't leave any fibers into your coating .

The bonding primer is all set up and dry time for step four , the epoxy Undercoater .

In this case , this recipe calls for white .

We're going to do our white undercoater .

We'll let that dry and we'll be ready for step five .

I'll do two coats of my white undercoat and I'm gonna stand in between with 220 grid .

Ok .

We're gonna show how to go over an existing countertop that you want to leave intact .

I'm simply gonna make a piece that drops over the existing countertop .

What I need to do is get my length and width so that I can drop that piece over this one and hide it .

Let's say I'm going to move later .

I could take that with me and turn it into a coffee table .

You think that's a good idea ?

I say you get the thumbs up button for that one ?

All right .

So I know my length is gonna be 43 5 eights and my depth is 34 .

So let's go 43 5 eights by 34 .

Is this current countertop ?

So I'm gonna make my piece bigger than that .

So it just drops right over that existing one .

Let's go to the garage and show you how to do a drop edge with a few key pro tips .

We're going to start with MDF .

That's a medium density fiberboard .

The reason we like this , it's inexpensive , it's flat and it's the same material all the way through .

So if you happen to router an edge , it'll match just perfectly using a table saw to cut some drop edge strips will hide the existing countertop .

I'm going to screw these on to that piece of MDF .

I cut to size .

So I have a shell that's going to encapsulate that old laminate .

So what we're gonna do is create a drop edge to hide that existing island .

We know that island is one and a quarter inches thick .

So we'll be sure that that drop edge hides that island completely .

You can adjust the appearance of how thick your countertops are by adjusting your drop edges .

If you're doing new construction , you could even laminate just a strip of MD F below it to make your countertops appear an inch and a half thick .

This is pretty standard and it's awesome for new construction remodeling or even old coffee tables first .

I'll tack it on with some micro pens .

I'll glue it and then I'll come back and I'll pre drill and screw with coarse thread screws that way it doesn't ever come apart .

I've used an oversized drill bit as a counter sink .

So I would hide my screwheads .

I'm also going to use my angle grinder and a 50 grip metal sanding disk to pre shape the edges on this Accent Island you see on this island , I want to make it look like a rock face edge .

So I'm pre shaping that so that I can apply the next step .

But see on site , I'm going to keep those edges as they were .

I'll have two different edges on the same project .

It will actually add some more visual interest so that everybody who meets along this gathering place , which is the Accent Island will have something to talk about .

The Bondo is going to act for two purposes .

One , I'm going to hide the top seam where I laminated that edge and two , it's going to create a chiseled look .

In this case , I want the island to look like a piece of chiseled stone .

It'll look really fantastic having that stone and the rest of it smooth .

It really accents one another and creates visual interest .

This is easy to apply .

I mix that Bondo , I use a gloved hand and I tap those edges after I've applied it that creates high points .

I let that dry and I come back and sand it nice and smooth .

So it doesn't hurt your hand when you rub your hand against it .

That's how I gauge if it's done correctly , you can mimic multiple textures using the same process .

It's really fun to experiment in different ways to emulate lava rocks , seashells , rock face edge granite , anything that you wish , just study what Mother Nature creates and have fun .

I'm going to do two coats of our undercoater .

This really gives us a beautiful undertone to start with .

And again , this recipe calls for white .

This is the same undercoater we used on site over the laminate .

But in this case , we didn't need our bonding primer because we're going over a more porous surface , which is MD F .

So no need for bonding primer just goes straight to the undercoat .

Now that I'm caught up with the rest of the kitchen , I'll bring this on site tomorrow and I'm ready to apply the epoxy .

We wanted to do a six inch backsplash .

So I went and bought Primed MD F that was six inches tall .

I'm just cutting it to size so I can make my backsplashes out of something that was readily available .

I'm using a trim router to create an eased edge .

So the epoxy will flow over that backsplash .

You can also use a sander and just make it where the epoxy will flow over and it's not a sharp 90 degree cut .

That's a pro tip .

I'm gonna sand my undercoat with 220 grid .

I'll wipe the dust and I'm ready for the next step .

Let's get ready to pour .

I'm actually gonna mask off the sink , cut out using a trash bag .

So it catches any drips and it doesn't go into the sink cabinet .

I'm also gonna mask where that plug meets the cabinet .

So nothing actually touches the cabinet .

Let's go ahead and oversize wherever we're prepping .

So we don't stress during the pour .

I'm going to temporarily use tape to mask a dam along the perimeter of my countertop .

This catches all the epoxy as I pour .

So it doesn't go over the edges until I'm ready for that step .

This catches all the epoxy that I can use as veins in different accents .

It's a great technique to do when you pour in place to control the pore .

I'll get my epoxy and accent colors all prepped and ready to go .

I'm gonna pre spray some of my edges to give it that effect .

So it matches the top surface .

This is a pro tip on how to make a realistic rock face edge .

Hey guys , I'm one of the fellows working on this video .

I want to make sure , you know , we have an entire kit that's made for this recipe as well as a few others that will help you save thousands on your next kitchen or bathroom remodel .

Click the link in the description below to be taken to that kit and now back to the video , this kitchen is about to thrive because we're at step five .

We're going to do the color code .

This is the epoxy , the colorant and we're gonna mix that into a bucket and pour it on the surface .

The epoxy undercoater is dry , we sand it with 220 grid .

Now we've taped the edges off that way .

We encapsulate and trap the epoxy until we're ready for it to flow over the edge .

We're going to start with our L shape .

Then we're going to do our backsplash and we'll finish with the island .

That's a pro tip .

We're going to use the island as our mixing station and we'll finish with that and then we'll walk away .

We'll turn the heat on in the house using a radiant heater .

That way it doesn't blow dust throughout the house .

It'll set up and tomorrow we'll do the clear coat .

Let's get started pro tip .

I'm going to use a little bit of Isopropyl alcohol and a rag just to wipe any dust left over from wiping the dust .

After Sandy guys , when you're mixing , we're going to mix part B and then we're going to mix part A .

We're going to do a 1 to 1 ratio .

We'll mix it for about two minutes using a drill .

Then we're going to use our spray paints .

This is what's going to give it its color and make it come to life and look like stone .

As we transfer the clear epoxy into another bucket .

We'll also add color periodically to give it that random look .

Then we're going to take that bucket and pour it on the surface .

After that , we'll peel the tape and let that flow over the edges in about three hours come scrape the drips .

I'll use a paint stick , a gloved hand or even an old credit card and scrape those drips off .

So the next day I'm drip free and I can apply the color code after mixing my clear epoxy .

I'm gonna transfer that into smaller pales .

This is where I'm gonna spray my different colors .

The different colors that I use will be mixed with my drill and I'm gonna use a vacuum to catch any overspray .

How many projects do you think you could do with one can of spray paint ?

A lot ?

Man , a lot pro tip use a vacuum to extract your overspray to keep your work area nice and fresh .

Also to keep my countertops a little bit lighter .

I'm going to be quite conservative on the amount of black spray paint that I use .

I have less epoxy and I'm going to use less spray paint just to keep the black nice accents and undertones and not the loud portion of this project .

When you're mixing your colors start with the lightest color first .

Then when you put your mixing paddle in the next color , you won't contaminate a dark color within a light color and make it darker .

Does that make sense ?

That's a pro tip ?

Remember some of that spray paint is mixed into the epoxy and some were spraying between the layers of epoxy .

This gives you different effects that automatically make it look like natural stone .

This is how you do a dirty port like a probe .

Now , you know , OK .

Here's the game plan .

I'm gonna pour a stripe right in the middle of this , but I'm gonna keep the grain flow all going this direction on the L .

So it looks like it was cut out of a slab of stone .

Then I'm gonna do a diagonal pattern on the Accent Island here to make this the showpiece of the whole project .

When we have fixed counters in place , we can't tilt those counters .

So we're simply going to pour and let gravity do its thing .

You can also use a heat gun to move that around .

Even your gloved hands , those make great tools to move and manipulate the epoxy so that it all covers evenly as the epoxy begins to level over the edges .

I can grab that access and fill in any voids that I have left .

That's a pro tip .

So you don't get any waste .

You can also add that to the other counters that haven't been quite completed yet .

This also adds different colors into the mix that you can drag and create accents with that make it look more random and more natural .

I love the beauty in this recipe .

But remember you can customize this to your own space .

Any accent colors you want to add .

Don't be afraid .

You can also do a little research on our youtube channel on our website and see the multiple different options that you have to create your own dream kitchen .

Remember you're gonna save a lot of money too .

We're going to mask the edges of the island in the same form and fashion as the rest of the project .

But in this case , we're going to tilt that island .

This allows us to coat it using gravity .

It's a fun technique and I love doing it where it's possible .

We scraped out the buckets after mixing and used that excess epoxy to pre lubricate the island .

This allows the pore to slip and slide a little bit easier and to coat this quickly using the tilt method .

We're also gonna come back and add a few veins .

This adds real beautiful color and stacks those on the project to make it look very natural .

Now , it's time to coat the backsplash .

We actually made a little station in the kitchen where we used a piece of insulation foam to catch our drips and stacked it on buckets .

This was a great process to be able to pour any of the excess epoxy .

We had left to coat those backsplashes .

I also added a little bit of black spray paint into the bucket and poured that in the center of the splash .

The splashes were just a little bit too light for me and they didn't match the counters .

So by adding some black and tilting it and moving it around , I was really able to match that color that I had in the counters where these would be set .

Don't worry , this is a forgiving process .

If you want to adjust the color , use gravity , use heat , use a little bit of color and you can match it exactly to your desire after my pour , I'm gonna torch out the air .

You can use a heat gun or a torch and remove any air bubbles that are caused by mixing .

Now it's time to take off that tape that we created a temporary dam with rub out those edges using a gloved hand and you'll be ready for the next step .

That's step five .

That's the epoxy pour .

And that's the fun part .

But remember prior planning prevents poor performance .

We prepped this kitchen so we weren't worried about making a mess .

What we're going to do now is wait a few hours , we're going to come back and scrape the drips on the underside of these countertops that does two things that removes the bumps .

It also waterproofs that under lip to really make this tough and last long time in your kitchen environment guys , we'll be back in a few hours .

We'll take care of that .

But I am loving the contrast that we're getting here .

I got some darker areas in this section .

I come over to this part of the kitchen and it almost turns to caramel with a little bit of black veins .

And then I got this vein that comes through my accent Island and I love the rock face .

This really put the cherry on top of this project .

We'll be back in a bit when we come back to scrape drips .

I like to scoop up the excess that may have fallen on the floor after it leveled and use that to create fractured spider veins .

You see the epoxy is gelled at this point .

So those veins don't like to travel much and they'll stay nice and thin and make it look like fractures .

This is fun .

I also use that same paint stick to scrape those drips underneath the countertop .

And after that , I'll use the gloved hand to remove any excess .

So it's nice and smooth and I don't have to sand after those drips have hardened .

That's a pro tip guys .

It's time for step six .

We're going to up level this project with marble spray .

We have multiple colors , black , white and silver available .

This actually gives you an enhanced look .

It's going to put fractured lines over this color coat to really give it an added layer of depth and realism .

Guys watch how we do this .

First , we start with the edges , then we do the major part or the field of the countertop and then we'll do our clear coat .

But first , we're going to sand with 220 grid .

This will make sure the clear coat adheres to the first coat that we did guys .

This is an easy step .

You don't need to be perfect .

All we're doing is roughing and scuffing , just scratch it up so that the next layer really grabs hold as a mechanical bond guys .

Again , we're going to use our 91% Isopropyl alcohol to wipe the dust off this surface .

So we have a clean surface to fracture our marble spray onto .

All right , guys , pro tip .

When we send you the marble spray , it won't depress .

There's a safety under this cap .

So pop the cap off and we have a little washer that washer doesn't allow the cap to depress and that's how we ship it safely .

So take that off .

So your marble spray will work .

All right guys , I'm gonna start on the edges first .

I'm gonna do perimeter all edges and then I'll fill in what needs to be done on the top .

This is so that I don't overdo the marble spray and I get just the right amount test your spray before you go on the surface .

That way you understand how it comes out of the can a little goes a long way .

This one can , will do multiple jobs for me .

So don't worry , you'll have plenty .

Remember we have all the products we're using in this video right there at stone cook countertops dot com .

Wow , that looks good .

Ok .

I'm gonna go ahead and do the field now and we'll see what this thing looks like .

We have multiple colors of the marble spray depending on the desired look that you have .

If you like a lot of contrast over a light color , you can use marble black .

If you want some lighter tones , you can use our silver or our white .

These are all different effects to give you a different look .

All right guys , question of the day .

Did you like the marble effect after we did it or did you prefer it before the marble effect ?

Let us know .

I love it after the marble effect .

I can't wait to try it or I liked it better before the fracturing .

Let us know in the comments below .

Don't forget , do your backsplashes and face the top of the back splash towards the can .

So you get everything to match like a pro .

It's amazing to see this project come to life .

But even though this step looks good , I can't wait to add the clear coat .

It adds so much depth .

It makes it look like you're a faux artist .

I love that marble spray .

What do you guys think ?

Would you like the white , the black or would you like the silver over this kind of a color or would you like it the way it was if you choose to do the marble spray after you spray it , go through and break any of those strings that are hanging down this stuff dries really fast .

You can do that quickly .

Remember traditional countertops can cost thousands of dollars but stone coat epoxy costs $5 a square foot guys pro tip .

You notice that I have plastic up where that backsplash is going to go .

That's because that marble effect spray is obviously going to have a little bit of overspray .

So you want to catch that with some plastic , some paper , some newspaper , cardboard , whatever you choose to block that spray , I'm going to pull that down .

Now , I'm going to pour the clear coat , going to add 1 to 1 ratio like we did yesterday with no colors .

It's the same stone coat countertop , epoxy and we've heated it up , we put it in front of a space heater .

It's going to flow like a dream .

But in this case , instead of pouring it out of a bucket , we're going to pour it and Tral it , we're going to gauge that with our 1/8 by 18 square notch trail .

This allows it to spread nice and evenly .

Then we're going to chop that surface just to ensure everything is mixed and we hide those troll after that , we'll come back and scrape those drips in about 3 to 4 hours .

Then tomorrow we're gonna de prep this thing .

We're gonna be all done and we'll get ready to put that kitchen sink back in and get this countertop back to use .

Ok , guys , because this island is removable .

I'm gonna take advantage of that .

I'm gonna pop it off , use this as my mixing station and we'll finish with the island so that we can put it back on and pour it .

And we're all set up , guys .

Remember the marble effect spray dries really fast .

There's really no waiting time .

It'll be ready for clear epoxy after about 10 minutes of drying .

That's awesome .

Again , doing a clear coat is simple .

We'll start with part B and we'll do part A .

We're going to use three ounces per square foot on this coat .

Then we're going to mix for two minutes using a drill .

We'll pour it out , we'll try it , we'll chop it and then we'll torch the bubbles out .

The bubbles come out super fast .

That way we can mix with the drill and then train a little air .

But the torch will remove those .

If you don't want to use a torch , you can also use a heat gun .

I'm gonna begin in one end of the kitchen with my clear epoxy .

I have no color in it .

It's just clear .

I'm gonna use my 1/8 inch square notch trial to gauge the depth .

So I get an even coat here .

This is the finished coat .

We want it perfectly level .

After I spread that out , I'll scrape the excess back into my fixing cup .

This , I can pour that back wall any little sliver like that and not make a big mess .

It's really easy to control and I have plenty of working time .

So I don't need to be in a hurry .

I'll just work my way around that kitchen by using that same technique , scrape the excess into the bucket and I'm ready to move on .

I no longer need my mixing station I'll slide my island back into place and I'll do the same process and procedure on the island .

Ok .

Guys , now that the clear is all trolled out on the surface , we're going to chop the surface using our chop brush , then we're going to come back and torch it .

Make sure you brush those edges out horizontally with that chop rush and you'll get beautiful coverage .

Remember , just chop the entire surface in a random pattern .

It's that simple chopping mixes the material one final time as well as removes any of those trial lines .

It's a great step to ensure you have a uniform cured finish .

Guys .

Did you know that stone coat epoxy is eco friendly ?

There's no noxious smell .

It's also heat resistant .

You could set hot pans directly on the surface .

It's U V resistant , scratch resistant .

It's perfect for your kitchens and bathrooms .

It's food safe .

It's impact resistant .

It's been tested by customers and contractor approved when it's time to remove the air bubbles .

I'll simply sweep the surface with my torch again .

You could use a heat gun as well .

I'll do this multiple times typically three times .

I'll let the countertops rest for about five minutes and come back and torch it again .

Pro tip guys do a final sweep , go through and scan the surface .

Look for any little micro bubbles that might be sticking up and the torch hammers those out right away .

Sweep it before you leave it .

All right , we're gonna come back in a few hours , just like yesterday , we'll remove those drips and then tomorrow we'll take all the prep work down , we'll clean the kitchen up , slide the fridge and stove back into place , install the sink and we're all set .

That's how you clean a bucket .

If you let the epoxy set up in a bucket and you pull it out a couple days later , that's how you clean the bucket efficiently and perfectly .

When you take all your masking off , start from the top and work your way down .

Put everything onto that floor material , roll it up like a burrito and clean up as fast .

Use the opportunity with the stove and the fridge out of place to do a deep clean before you put them back in .

I like to make my backsplashes piece larger than necessary .

So after I pour them , I can use a wood , tooth saw blade to cut through that epoxy and wood and give myself a factory finish .

All right , let's go get the parts we need for the sink .

We're going to cut this back , splash flush and we'll be back to finish the install after you make your backsplash , cut the bottom side of it .

That way you get a nice tight fit to that existing countertop and it looks much cleaner .

You're going to get some drips bumps and imperfections on that bottom .

When you pour , just cut it off and you'll have a factory edge after dry fitting all of our backsplash .

We're ready to adhere it to the wall using 100% silicone .

Just a few dollops , evenly spread and it'll adhere for life .

Now it's time to seal the joint between the backlash and the countertop .

We're gonna pre mask using blue painter's tape and we've gotten some silicone that complemented the color of our countertops .

This is a very , very light gray silicone and it worked out perfectly for this recipe .

The best method to create a nice tight seam is to use your finger and push that silicone in place after that , remove the tape and it's gonna look amazing .

I used some plumber's putty to install the flange of the garbage disposal into the sink .

I also pre installed the faucet and soap dispensers so that when I dropped the sink in , I was ready to hook up the connections and test it out .

We use the same method as the backsplash to create a leak proof seal around the perimeter of that sink .

Remember we have videos on how to do under mount sink installations as well .

Just check the description below .

We love to use our liquid smooth cleaner to finish the job , right ?

It makes the countertops feel as slick as glass .

Remember the difference between good and great isn't much .

So go ahead and try a practice sample board , even go down to your local thrift store and get an old end table test your recipe and your epoxy skills .

You'll get a little bit of experience and you can do this in your own space .

That's a pro tip .

Thanks so much for watching everybody .

Did you change your mind about the marble spray ?

Be sure .

And let us know in the comments below .

Click the link in the description below to be taken to the epoxy kit for this recipe .

We'll see you on the next remodel you got this .

Yeah .

Yeah .