How to make a TV panel - Wall mount a TV and hide the wires

What's up guys .

So I got a few more pieces that I need to make before I give you that official room tour .

So in today's video , I got a lot to cover .

I'm gonna show you how to make a back lit led panel for the TV , along with mounting the TV , and also adding an outlet behind the TV and show you how to just get rid of those wires so you don't have to see them .

So this TV panel is gonna be part of the future entertainment channel that I want to add here .

So I'm still designing that I don't know how complicated are , how simple I want to go with it , but this is gonna be a two piece thing .

So this is part one of it .

And in the future , I'm gonna have an additional video that complement this .

So here's a quick word from today's sponsor and we're gonna get right into the field .

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Let's get started for this project .

I'll be using Birch plywood .

But keep in mind , you can be as creative as you like .

You can use pallette flooring , exotic wood , you name it , you can use it and I do have other pieces in this area that would draw a little more attention .

So I want this to be a bit subtle .

I'll only need to make two rips on this plywood .

The first one was to trim it down to the height and the second pass is to trim it down to the width .

I'll also need to rip additional pieces for the framing going around the back side of the panel .

The entire panel is cut from one sheet of plywood .

Now , I do a ton of sketching before I start a project and many times I never go according to plan .

So I never really know what my project is gonna look like until it's done .

So along the way , I'm always changing things and one of the things I changed in this build was the thickness of the frame , it started off being 2.5 inch thick , but ended up 1.5 .

And right after the drilling , all the pocket holes , this is when it hit me that , that just seemed a little thick .

And with all the addition of everything that was gonna push your TV out a bit too far .

So I ended up cutting these down after I drilled the pocket holes , jigs are for basic draw and I love them .

They're fun to use .

But if you don't have a set , you can just use wood glue and screws , majority of this will be hidden .

So don't worry about anything being seen after building the frame , I apply wood glue to the bottom .

But just keep in mind if you go with pocket hole screws , which direction is the bottom .

Now with the span of the plywood and it being so thin you will see some flex .

And so I created this quick jig .

So it helped me keep everything positioned in the same spacing going all the way around .

And often simple ideas can make a big difference during a project with the framing being so thick .

I need to add these spaces so I can bring out the French cleat pieces to the end .

And the final pieces for the beck are these dividers which they're just for support .

They're not really meant for anything other than that .

In my experience , the quickest way to cover the end of a plywood is just using edge banding , especially the one that had adhesive on it .

So you can use the iron and just put it on .

Very simple .

Usually the edge banding is wider than the plywood .

So they do make a tool that you can come back and shave off that extra .

I've used a razor before , but trust me , you want the tool before applying my finish .

I'm gonna take this to the room and install it when you're mounting a TV .

Just think about what you want to center it up with , in my case , I'm gonna center this up with the best and because I'm using this TV back panel , I'm gonna find the first location for one of the cleats , use the stud finder to find the studs in the wall and to land this on two stud , it does offset my center about two or three inches .

Now , I did transfer the stud location right on to the first piece of cleat that I have in my hand .

Now , the studs are spaced 16 inches apart , but it's good to double check and confirm .

Now , if you notice I did drill down into the wood sum so that the screwheads sit flat and don't interfere with the TV panel .

All the French pieces were cut to the same width , but the ones that got mounted to the wall , I cut those again so that I have a little bit of a wiggle room .

This way , I don't have to be pinpoint accurate when mounting with the first install , I just need to take a few measurements off of that double check with the panel and then tell me where I need to put the second one .

Unfortunately , I can only install this side into one stud .

So the other end of this will be installed with a heavy duty toggle bolt .

When I used to be a technician , I used these bolts all the time to install TV .

S .

And at this point , I'm installing the final pieces to the French system and that's right to the panels .

And you can tell by my reaction , I'm excited to see how well that worked out and what's the installation without a hanging test .

I'm not gonna get too deep on Walmart and the TV .

But I'm gonna show you how to put one in an exact location .

So visually , you want the same distance from top to bottom and also side to side .

I'm gonna get started by removing the things I don't need .

This TV , had a handle on it , which I don't need and also stands .

I measured the height of the TV .

Then place the bracket in the center .

This part's not that important , but it's what I did .

And I say that because mounting holes are different heights on TV .

S and although I install the spacers on the TV bracket , I eventually remove those because it pushed the TV , out too far .

Depending on the TV model you have , you may or you may not need them before mounting the wall bracket , attach it to the TV .

Now measure from the bracket to the top of the TV .

In this case , I'm gonna use one of the mounting holes to the top of the TV .

Then hold on to that measurement because we'll need that in a second .

The two pieces of tape I have set the outside measurement of the bracket .

So all I need to worry about is the top to bottom .

I hope I don't make this too complicated , but I subtract the height of the TV from the height of the panel .

Then I'll take that number , divide it by two .

And that put me at about 5.5 inches which I then measure from the edge and place the mark .

Then I'm gonna grab that measurement from the top of the TV to the bracket measure from the first mark down .

And that is where you put your bracket .

And maybe there is a simpler way .

But with these steps that will put your TV , exactly where you want it .

This method should work for any flat brackets , mounting the bracket in the middle of the panel will work for some TV .

S but not all this TV is only 55 inch and it is something I feel comfortable handling on my own .

If you have the slightest doubt , just get help and don't do this on your own .

I really didn't have any plan to add this outlet just yet .

I was gonna leave that for the Entertainment Center , but I decided that I'll thank myself later when the work's already done .

After marking the location of the electrical box , I then cut out that hole .

I didn't want this piece to attract too much visual attention unless the light is off .

So I wanted to go with a set of color , light white .

Now , if you go this route , just think about how you actually , I really want this piece to sit in your space to avoid seeing why it's draped down from the TV to the outlets .

I decided I'm gonna move the cable over to the TV and also extend the power from here up to the TV .

I'm gonna work on the outlet while it's live because I need the light in this room to shoot the video , but I'm experienced with working with this stuff .

So I would totally recommend that you turn off the breaker before you attempt this .

Now with the panel extending so wide , I can just cut a hole right above both of those outlets .

And then I'm going to fish up from down below , up to the small holes I just cut in .

Now , this is also an exterior wall .

So I don't have the space that I would behind the dry wall that I would have on the interior wall .

Now that I have the fish tape coming up and out of the hole , I can attach the electrical wire to the fish tape and pull that down to the junction box .

Now , with that junction box , it's a metal box because it's attached to an exterior wall by code , you cannot pass an electrical wire through a metal box without using a and in my area , there is also code on where outlets should be .

So I cannot move the one I'm working on now .

I can only tap off of it and add one above .

I looked out with the .

So because it was coming straight down and I was able to intercept it and pull it up .

I don't have to do anything with this wire just yet because it's gonna get connected right to my cable box .

I'm gonna wire the new outlet first because the other end is not hooked up and it's safe to go ahead and tie this one in .

So this is pretty simple .

The white wire is gonna go to the silver terminal .

The black wire is gonna go to the gold terminal and the copper or the bare wire is gonna go to the green terminal .

If you happen to be out of the US , then more than likely your hookup is different .

At this point , I can connect a new outlet .

I'm just gonna take loose the existing wire nets that are here and tap into those copper for copper , white , for white and black , for black , depending how many wire is at your junction box , you may need to replace the wire net so that you can properly tighten those up , no matter how good you are .

I totally recommend always just test your outlet before you hook up any device into it .

A simple tester like this is good enough to let you know if you have the outlet wired correctly .

Now , this is my first time using wifi Led S and I'm excited about trying these out and I know you're thinking another project with Led S but just keep in mind , I'm never gonna have all these on at one time .

So for me , light set the mood in a space and I got them in a different location that I want to set a mood .

Plus it's great to have options .

The led strip will be wrapped around the entire frame of the back .

This strip seem to have a much better adhesive on it than the ones I've had in the past .

But I'll still recommend dabbing a little bit of hot glue on it in a few locations so that this don't lift up the whole next to the outlet .

It's just there so I can pass wire through the panel , I'll need to pass the led controller through it and also the co ax cable , I have the panel hung and now I can tighten up the outlet for this set up , I gotta add an extension cord because I need at least three outlets .

One for the TV , one for the led s and one for the cable box , the TV bracket I'm using has two safety locks on them , but this panel doesn't , but you can add a couple screws in it to secure this to the wall , just add the screws behind the TV , so that you can't see them .

And lastly , I just need to place the led controller and this is just for quick access because I can control this via my phone .

Hope you guys enjoyed this video .

As I said in the beginning , this is also gonna be a part of the entertainment center that I'm going to build here .

I don't know what kind of style I wanna put to it .

Yes .

So if you guys got some cool ideas and it fit what I need , I'm gonna incorporate it .

I think I'm looking for something slim .

I'm not looking for nothing too big or complicated yet .

So that's still in the design phase and I have to figure something out a big .

Thank you to Vikings War of Clans for sponsoring today's video .

And thank you for tuning in a great way to support .

What I do is by downloading Vikings for free , using my link down in the video description that will let them know that you guys are supporting my channel and hopefully they support me in the future .

And for your generous support , you'll get a free bonus , 200 gold coins and also a protective shield .

That is it for this one .

Be sure to like , comment and subscribe and I will catch you on the next one .