How's it going ?
You guys , it's Scott with everyday home repairs .
And today I want to help you avoid the number one mistake .
I see D I wires do when they're jumping into electrical .
The mistake comes from when you need to connect stranded wire to solid core wire .
This is extremely common in light fixtures such as vanity lights , ceiling lights .
I have one right here which is an led recessed wafer light and inside the junction box , all your connections are going to be stranded with your neutral hot and your ground .
You will also see this with a lot of the smart switches that are becoming more and more popular .
And why this is so important is because a loose connection can equal at minimum additional heat in your junction box which might lower the life of , of these connections and at maximum can equal arcing or a short , which can be a fire hazard .
So let me quickly show you how to connect these two together with a simple wire net and what the best practices are .
And then we'll finish off with actually my preferred method , which I think is perfect for D I wires .
So here's the example of a common failure .
The wire net is connected , I don't have any exposed copper .
It feels pretty tight and where the wire net is biting into the wire .
But then many people forget to do a pole test .
So if I pull , I can already see that the wires coming out and there the stranded came out and I had a very weak connection .
Now , the wire net still connected on , but that's because it was biting into the solid .
So here's the example , you can see the wire net actually was just biting into the solid core and then the stranded was just getting wrapped around the solid core .
But really with a very loose connection , this is a classic failure point and something that can be avoided with a simple technique .
Let me show you how .
So first up , we're gonna strip off some new wire and remember in your wire strippers , you do have the gauge call outs for stranded and then on the opposite side for solid .
And those will be different stripping holes depending on if you're doing stranded to solid .
Now , this is 14 gauge .
So 14 gauge solid would be here and usually I'll be stripping three quarters of an inch or maybe just a little bit more .
You'll pull that straight off , you will not pull it at an angle and you shouldn't wiggle the strippers too much because that can cause damage to the copper itself .
Now , that's especially true with stranded because stranded can , you can break off some of those strands , right ?
And then you'd be lessening the current capacity of that wire .
So 14 gauge here and again , we're going to do about three quarters to an inch again , pulling straight out .
See sometimes if you , if it's a little bit harder , you can go to the piece of insulation that no longer has any wire in it , you can pinch down on that piece of insulation and then pull it the rest of the way off .
Now , for the stranded , it is nice to put a little bit of a pre twist on there just to make sure you don't have any frayed wire .
Then the correct approach is pretty simple and this is going to ensure you get a nice strong connection between the stranded and solid .
What you want to do and what we did wrong last time is we just put the wires , we just put the wires within the wire net .
And what ended up happening is the solid actually led the stranded .
So the wire net actually just bit onto the top part of the solid and the stranded just got wound loosely around the solid core .
That is not what you want .
You want to actually do the opposite .
You want to lead with the stranded .
You can really do only about an eighth of an inch and that's gonna be enough often when you have solid core wire , many professionals will pre twist , they'll pre twist the wires together prior to putting the wire nut on .
Even though the wire net manufacturers usually call out to not pre twist and to let the wire nut or a wing nut like this do the work .
All right .
So now once we have that folding on , we can look down inside , you can see the stranded is much higher up and is biting into that wire nut .
So that same pole test is not going to pull the wire out like it did last time .
So you can kind of yank on these all you want and it's just not gonna happen .
Now , a correctly installed wire net is really hard to beat in terms of price and the proven durability , the challenge is it does take a little getting used to .
So if you're starting off on your electrical project , I actually have a better solution and it is the connector I've been using for the last year .
Let me show you one quick note .
If you guys are ever looking to expand your tool collection , you're kind of building out as you build up your diy skills and projects .
You can look down in the description , you'll see our Amazon store .
It has things like my favorite utility knife , which is the Milwaukee Fast back .
You'll see my go to wire strippers which are now this hybrid set from Kics , which are a great brand but they're a little costly .
So sometimes I will put kind of the higher end and a more mid tier that I also prefer , you'll see the pictures , you can kind of run through it quickly and see if we have a recommendation for tools .
So just something to check out and you'll see that in all of our different videos .
So now on to the connectors that I recommend these connectors are called A wa 221 .
If you've seen any of my other videos , you've seen these connectors because they are my go to now these are both three wire connectors .
They are called lever nuts .
They are not push in connectors , do not be confused with something like this , which would just be a push in connector .
These are a little bit different why I prefer these , I think especially for D I wires , you can get a more consistent connection using the wao lever nuts than you can with the wire NT considering you're only doing so many electrical projects a year .
So you don't get a lot of reps with the wire nuts , which it does take a little time to get used to them .
The smaller wa 221 , which you can get two pin , three pin , five pin .
Those are the ones I carry on me all the time .
This goes up to 12 gauge and then the bigger one can actually go up to 10 gauge .
So the smaller , which has the smaller envelope which is easier to fit in the junction box is by far what I recommend and why I recommend these for D I wires you will see .
So we open up our two slots here by releasing the lever , we place our solid core in .
You'll see it through the housing , it's fully seated .
And that chrome bar there is actually the bus bar .
So I'll close that lever and that secures that wire in place .
Then with a pre twist on the stranded just to make sure I don't have any stray strands that get caught up .
I'll also see that in and the big thing is 22 ones are approved for stranded , not just solid core .
There's some confusion out there .
There's also some confusion seems like a lot of pros say that these cannot handle load .
I'll put a link in the description , the silver symbol which is a great youtube channel .
You you guys should check out did a load test and went three times the the rated capacity .
So it went up to 60 amps and the wa did generate heat but had zero issues once it cooled down , still fully functioning .
And that was even after three times the rated load .
So as long as it's installed as you see here with the wires fully seated , the wa is going to stand up to the test of time .
And actually over in the European markets , things like the wao lever nut are much , much , much more common than wire nuts .
And that's just because it's a solid consistent connection .
And here's an example of that , this is a 221-613 , which can handle 10 gauge .
And we have 14 gauge stranded wire in the middle .
I know others have commented that the levers are loose and they are loose , but that actually does not release the wire .
So we can show here the lever looks like it's starting to come released , but it's actually just some play within the levers .
And if we zoom out here , you'll see my little cheap test rig and that shows that single stranded wire holding £25 of weight without failing , you could push back a little bit on costs .
These are gonna be quite a bit more costly and cost you 5 to 10 times more than a standard wire nut .
But for us D R wires that aren't doing a ton of jobs , we're not doing commercial jobs .
I don't think that cost really makes a huge difference .
Why I also like the I use them on like temporary light fixture at renovation projects because they're reusable .
You can take them right off the wires are not damaged , you can reuse those .
They're just a great overall connector and I do highly recommend them .
So now , you know , if you're installing that ceiling light or vanity light , you just want to use the standard wire notes in the package .
No problem .
Now , you know how to safely connect up stranded to solid .
But if you have a few projects ahead of you , I do recommend getting yourself some wa 22 ones .
There's some sample kits that have 23 and five pins .
You'll see that down in the description and I just think it's a great starter kit for D I wires to see if you prefer these type of connectors .
Now , if you want to see other best practices and just things to avoid when you're swapping out outlets around the house .
Check out this video right here , I'll walk you through three issues .
I actually found in a newly built home in my area .
So thanks for joining us on this video and we'll catch you on the next one .
Take care .