What is up guys ?
So Canadian rider today , we're gonna be doing a full oil change on my 2006 Lexus I S3 50 .
So we got the car here .
It's been about a year since we did the last oil change and I have everything I need here to do this .
It's extremely important that you change the oil at least on an interval scale that is working for you .
So in this case here on this Lexus I S3 150 I typically change it at around every 10,000 kilometers .
And I'm using full synthetic oil and I'm also changing the oil filter .
So I'm gonna be showing you how to change the oil and the oil filter today .
And I'm gonna have all the tools here that I'm using and all the products , everything will be linked in the description box down below .
So number one , let's talk about the oil I have here the Kirkland .
This is the Costco full synthetic oil .
I'm gonna be doing a whole other video about this , but this is some really impressive oil at an extremely cheap price .
I picked this oil up for $25 for both of these bottles .
That's so cheap .
It's almost like $20 us if you're American really cheap oil , but super high quality , there's a lot of analysis done on this oil in comparisons to lots of other full synthetic oils .
It hits that out of the park .
I'll do a full video on that later .
But this is the oil .
I got , I got two jugs .
You're gonna need 6.6 quarts of oil right now .
I got about 10 liters of oil here .
So make sure you have that oil filter .
This is the fram tough guard oil filter .
Typically I would go with O E M .
Unfortunately , uh the Toyota dealer was not open .
So I went ahead and picked this up , you know , FRM has improved significantly since they came out with the original oil filters .
These have done really well in reviews and in oil analysis results .
So make sure that you get a really good oil filter .
That's actually very , very important .
Arguably sometimes more important than the actual oil is the oil filter .
Make sure you have that in order to change the oil and oil filter on your Lexus I S3 50 you're gonna need this adapter .
So this fits over the housing for the oil filter .
So you wanna make sure that you get this , I'm gonna link this in the description box as well .
Finally , I have the jack stands .
Uh you'll need an oil pan to obviously catch all the residual oil and then I have my three ton jack .
So I'm gonna show you all the steps to make sure that you could do this oil change quickly in your garage .
So before you start , the first thing you're gonna actually want to do is make sure the engine's been running .
So I've had it running for about 15 minutes .
10 to 15 minutes is fine .
You don't want the engine oil to be super hot because you're gonna be touching it .
Um , but you want it to be warm .
So that actually all the engine oil drains properly .
So I've gone ahead and done that .
And the first thing we're gonna do is actually now jack up the car from the side .
So we want to jack up the sides of the car , put the jack stands underneath and then we're gonna go underneath and take out the oil drain plug .
So one of the first things you're gonna do is just looking at the jacking point here on the side of the car , you'll notice it's just a thin film of steel frame here .
Um , that's protruding out and that's where you're gonna put your jack stand or your jack under .
So we're gonna put the jack here if you like a hockey puck or something that's even better .
Um , specifically ones with like a little slit in it , but otherwise you don't need , necessarily need that , but I'm gonna go ahead and put the jack on this little crevice here .
Um And then we're gonna go ahead and jack this car up , ok ?
So if you come down here , I can actually show you where you should be jacking and mounting this .
So the jack stand here again on the frame rail .
But notice where I'm gonna put the jack stand .
This is important .
This is a reinforced frame rail .
Now , what you wanna do , it's really reinforced right around here , right ?
You wanna keep this right here , if you have a puck , some sort of puck or anything you can put in here as well .
To be honest with you , this has a uh plastic piece that's pretty strong and rigid and it's gonna protect this from marring .
So I'm gonna keep it like that , but that's where you want your jack stand to be right around here .
See this uh hole right here .
You just want to be on the left side of that hole and you're gonna place your jack stand right over here gently and we're gonna do this on the other side as well .
So now we're just gonna slowly lower the jack stand or the jack onto the jack stand .
And again , make sure that this is all secure .
Your security and safety is really important in doing this .
So make sure you have a good um axle stand or jack stand that can hold the capacity of the car .
In this case , this one's two tons or £4000 which is well over the weight of this car .
So now we're on the other side , we're gonna simply jack this part up again the same way we did on and we're gonna put the jack stand on a simo place on the frame rail so I'm just checking this making sure that I get it here again .
All right we are connected .
That looks about right .
Take the jack stand , similar height setting again .
You wanna make sure everything's very even same height setting .
Come down that , ok .
So if you come down here , you'll see again similar over to the this side of the frame rail hole .
This is the reinforced part of the frame rail just right over here .
This is gonna be perfect .
This is the perfect jack point for you again , if you have something for rubber , put it here , I have this that's fine and I'm slowly gonna bring this down , making sure that it fully connects on this side .
So I've gone ahead and lowered the jack onto the jack stand .
So now the weight of the car is basically fully supported by the jack stand .
But what I wanna do is make sure I get some safety measures put in place .
Number one , I like to actually keep the jack here at this jacking point .
Put a little bit of pressure back on the frame with it .
Not too much , you still want all of the weight to be held by the jack stands , not the jack and I would just keep it like this .
And then as a final caution , what I like to do is I like to take a spare tire and put it uh underneath the car with the rip .
So that is just gonna help .
You never know you can't be too safe .
Honestly , when you're doing this , you never know when things fail and you don't wanna be that guy or a girl underneath the car when you're doing this .
So I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna go ahead and grab one of the additional tires that I have and I'm gonna swap later on on the winner tire set .
So here's a rim with tire and all I'm gonna do is put this underneath the car , it barely fits and this is just gonna act as another , you know , worst case scenario , prevent uh prevention method .
Uh So now I feel confident I got two jack stands under there , have the jack supporting the car on that side and I have this tire and rim uh here just in case things go horribly wrong .
But now I can feel confident I can have some tea and biscuits under this car and I should be ok .
So we have the car safely jacked up .
Now , what we're going to do is remove the old oil from the oil drain plug and in this case , I have the fumo oil drain valve , which is super cool and I'll show you guys that as well and that will be linked in the description box down below it makes doing oil changes in your garage at home so much easier and I'll show you exactly how .
So I'm just gonna go ahead and get on my big red and I'm gonna get underneath the car .
And the first thing that you're gonna do when you come down under here is you're gonna look for where your oil drain plug is .
And in this case on this car , I hope you can see it .
It is right over here .
So I'm underneath the Lexus I S3 50 right now .
And you see where the oil drain valve is on my car .
So you see that brass piece right there , that's actually a fumo oil drain valve .
And I'll show you how easy that is to actually drain the oil .
But in your case , if you don't have that , you'll probably have a 14 millimeter bolt that you'll go ahead and remove and that'll drain out the oil .
But I'm gonna show you guys how easy it is to actually drain it with this FOMO oil valve .
So this is super cool .
I , I love this because of how easy this drain valve works .
So there's a little toggle switch here and all I'm gonna do is pull that down and that's it .
And out comes the oil .
How easy is that right ?
Like I highly recommend this , especially if you're a diy mechanic and you're doing your own oil changes .
This is just so easy .
I haven't had any problems with it whatsoever .
This is like the fourth time I'm using this valve .
No leaking .
No nothing .
You never have to worry about potentially stripping the threads and your oil pan in case you've proper or improperly threaded the oil pan bolt back .
Very convenient .
Look , if I just turn it back off , that's it and it's off and turn it back on and it's draining the oil .
So we're gonna go ahead and let this drain for 10 , 15 minutes .
And once that's done , we're gonna go ahead and do the oil filter .
I forgot to mention as well .
It's also nice to go ahead and unscrew your oil cap on your engine just to make the flow of oil a little bit easier .
I'm gonna leave that here and plus you're gonna have to end up putting some oil back in here .
So I'm gonna go ahead and grab my oil funnel .
I always put like a little bucket of cloth there and I'll keep that there .
So this is where we're gonna start pouring in our new oil once we change out the oil filter , which will get to right after the majority of the oil is done draining from the oil pan .
So you can , guys can see the oil is pretty much done draining Um , so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead and close the valve and in this case , if the oil's done draining for your car and you just have the , um , plug or the bolts , you can just go ahead and put that in .
But there you go , I'm just gonna stop .
That oil has stopped .
Basically , immediately .
I'm gonna grab my blue shop bag and just clean this up for a second .
It's always best practice to keep this clean .
So in case there's any oil leak in the future , um , you'll be able to know where it's coming from .
So just clean this area up , that's good .
And this hasn't been leaking at all for me .
So we're gonna go ahead and now move to the oil filter , which is over here .
Now , the oil filter .
So the oil filter is under this little flap guard .
You'll notice that I'm actually missing a bolt here from the front that's bad on me and there's two other bolts here and here .
So I'm gonna go ahead .
I have a 10 mil which you're gonna use to go ahead and remove these bolts .
So I'm gonna go ahead and remove this and remove that .
And these are really rusted out like my God , these are rusted out and I'm gonna remove them .
So that's one .
Look at all that .
And I don't wanna make , I wanna make sure this , this doesn't fall in the oil pans just hold it up .
OK , great .
And now I have access , I put those in there and now I have access to the oil filter housing , which is here .
So there it is .
That's the oil filter housing .
And what you're gonna do is using that special Toyota oil filter removal tool .
It's just gonna simply plug into the end of this and you're gonna ratchet it out .
So I'm gonna show you how to do that right now .
So this is the Toyota Oil filter removal tool .
Again , I'm gonna have everything I used in this video in the description box down below , but all this does is connects onto the oil filter just like that .
So , and then you're gonna loosen it up and you're gonna start seeing the oil start pouring out .
So you see it's getting loose , loose , loose .
I usually just like to keep the ratchet on here and it's gonna slowly come out here it goes .
Oh Make sure that the oil pan is properly positioned to catch this oil and this just gonna be a lot of oil that's gonna come out .
So I'm just letting it go out slowly because I don't want the oil to splash on the lens here .
Um It is literally just directly below this and I know there's a lot of oil that's gonna come out .
So I'm just letting it ease out slowly .
So it's really simple here just to remove this .
So it's actually popped out .
Now a lot of the oil is coming out .
It's gonna get a little messy guys like that's something you should just expect and that's fine .
So there it goes .
So now the majority of oil is coming out , I'm gonna bring out the tool with the filter and there we go .
So you can see here this is the oil filter .
This is the actual housing for the oil filter .
I'm just gonna go ahead and remove my tool .
It's a little bit stuck , it's fine .
Keep this here for now , let that drain out .
Um And there's not much that's actually draining out .
Now from here , you can see it's pretty much already done , but I'll , I'll just leave it there for now .
And with this oil filter , I'm just gonna go ahead and remove it from the housing , let that drain .
So this is the old filter and this is the housing that I'm talking about .
So this is the filter housing .
You don't even have to do anything too much about it .
This is the new filter again , this is actually made in Korea .
So this isn't like a cheap , you know , Chinese made filter .
This is a , a good filter obviously , again , I'd recommend going O E M in this case , I wasn't able to .
So I got this which is still very highly rated .
So we're gonna be using this now before we actually do that , I'm gonna go ahead and remove this and sometimes you'll notice that the filter tool gets a little bit stuck here .
Um , you kind of just have to wiggle it and it just comes out , you just need a little wiggling .
Now , what you're gonna see here , if you come a little bit closer , you're gonna see there's an oil gasket here .
So there's this rubber gasket right around the ring of the oil filter housing .
Very important that you actually change this .
Now , when you get your oil filter , you will get another gasket to replace this .
And all you're gonna do is take just a little screwdriver , pry this out and apply the new gasket .
So I'm gonna show you how to do that right now .
But with every filter you get , you should be getting a new gasket , right .
A new seal right here .
So what I'm gonna do , I'm gonna take a flathead screwdriver .
You're gonna put it in between here , just gonna pull it out , that's it .
And remember it goes , sometimes people confuse where it goes .
They think it goes up in here .
No , it's here .
It's the bigger one .
It's the one at the bottom of the base where the gasket goes , make sure you put it here .
One of my friends accidentally put it in here and all the oil started coming out .
It needs to be right in here .
So we have that , this is the new gasket .
So I'm gonna open this up with my oily hands and I kind of did that on purpose .
What you want to do as well with any Gascon oil filter , take a little bit of the oil that's inside of it .
It doesn't need to be the clean oil , don't worry about it .
But you , you need this to be lubricated and oiled up .
Just make sure it's nice and slick .
All of it's covered in the oil .
Now , what you're gonna do is you're gonna pop this back on here and again , the bottom ring , the bottom ring and you're gonna stretch it over .
That's that .
And you're good .
You're gonna take your new oil filter .
That's it .
You know , see that little bit of play right there .
That's perfectly normal because that's what's gonna happen is gonna compress when you actually tighten the oil filter housing back inside there .
So now this is good to go .
It's ready to go back inside the car .
You're gonna take your uh tool , pop it back here , switch your modes over and you're gonna go ahead and tighten this back up .
So I'll show you how to tighten that .
Um I , what I recommend some people do actually is that you hand tighten it .
So I'm gonna show you first you hand tighten it a little bit , then you go back with the tool to tighten it fully about as tight as you can um , comfortably .
You don't want to go over tight .
So let's get back underneath the car .
So here it is , we're gonna just pop it in here .
Do not cross thread .
This guys make sure it feels like it's gone in nicely .
If you feel any resistance in the beginning , something's wrong .
So now look , I'm pulling back at it .
It's good .
I'm gonna keep hand tightening it .
It should be very free and loose .
Look at this , it's almost like you could just do this and it'll move .
But once it starts getting a little tighter , great .
Now I'm gonna take my tool with my ratchet and we're gonna tighten this up .
So still it's nice and loose .
Now it's getting tight .
Now I can't even push it down my hand .
I'm gonna give it a nice uh uh OK .
A little bit more .
I'm a little bit weak here because I don't have them that much leverage in this weird angle underneath the car .
But this is nice and tight now .
So that's good .
I'm gonna just wiggle out like this because this tool gets stuck for me once in a while .
There we go and that's it .
Now , what you're gonna do is just simply put the cover back on here and we are good with the filter change and that is a lot of oil , a lot of oil in this pan .
Now , my oil probably isn't as bad .
I didn't drive too much with everything that happened with COVID .
Um recently So the oil actually doesn't look as bad as I originally thought .
This is the oil filter .
This is the O E M oil filter .
We're gonna go ahead and obviously when you change the oil , make sure you put this back into the oil jugs of the new oil that you got and then dispose of that properly .
These are some pretty dangerous chemicals .
So I'll go ahead and put this aside .
Now that this is done , we're gonna start loading up the car with the fresh new oil , the Kirkland Costco oil , the fully synthetic oil .
This is the fun parts when you take your new fresh oil that's going to integrate with your car .
And again , I mentioned this in the beginning of the video .
Um I always use full synthetic oils , especially in Canada where you have temperatures that go well below freezing .
Um The biggest part of where that happens in your car is when it's cold start , that's where the majority of the oil is still very sluggish .
It's not viscus and the internal parts of your car are not getting lubrication .
So honestly , you need to get a full synthetic for your daily driver , especially in your , in some inclement climates like in Canada where it gets very cold and it can get very hot .
So this is the Kirkland signature .
Again , five W 30 .
Always make sure to follow your manufacturer's recommendations for the grade of oil .
I know Lexus has come out with a TSB about using five W 20 oil as well .
In this case , you can use five W 35 W 20 for your , is 350 is 2 50 quite interchangeably at times , depending on the season and temperature .
I'm going to go ahead with five W 30 .
I have my oil funnel here .
I'm just going to start pouring that in .
And now , so this Lexus I S3 150 the I S 250 models , they're basically the same oil change .
I do this on my fiance's .
Lexus is S 250 .
I do this on my Lexus is 350 but you're gonna want around 6.6 quarts of oil that's with the filter fully saturated .
What I like to do , I'm gonna go ahead and pour a full one of these jugs which is just almost five quarts .
I'm gonna put that in and I'm gonna put about another quart to get about six quarts of oil in the car .
And then you're gonna go ahead and drop the car and check the levels .
And now what I'm gonna do is just quickly check , like , do we have any leaks down here ?
And I don't see anything crazy .
These are just little oil from the splashback .
Um , when you're changing the filter , I don't see anything there .
The real test is when you actually turn on the car , you let it run , you keep an eye on the bottom , make sure everything looks good .
Um But yeah , so we're gonna continue filling this up .
We're gonna just make sure that this is ok .
Down below , we're gonna drop the car down , start it with about six liters of oil .
Check the oil dipstick , check to make sure we have the right amount top it up and then we're good to go .
So we have about six liters of oil in the car with a new filter , but it hasn't been soaked in the filter .
So I'm going to turn the car on .
It's probably going to be a little low on the oil .
We're going to let the car stay on for about 30 seconds , get the oil through the system and then we're going to go ahead and check with the Dipstick , the oil level .
So we let the car stay on for just a little bit and now we're gonna go ahead and check the Dipstick .
So Dipsticks here , we're gonna go ahead and just give it a quick clean off .
Uh And then we're gonna go down and see , I expect it to be low .
Here we go .
So we see it is definitely low actually , you know what I see that it's clear .
I actually see that it's middle .
Let me do that again .
A little bit inconclusive .
Let's try that again .
Oil back in and out .
We are actually good .
It is right on the top of the max line .
So right off the bat here I put about , I think just under six quarts of oil and it's at the max line and again , I'm gonna just test it one more time .
I am on a level surface .
And I'm just underneath the max line .
We're just at the max line .
Ideally , it's a little bit lower than the max line , but that's fine here .
Uh , I'm gonna assume that it's still gonna just , you know , level out a little bit more um as I keep the engine on , but that is it .
That is basically how you change the oil on your 2006 or any uh second generation Lexus I S 2 50 or Lexus I S 2 50 .
If you guys like this video , give it a thumbs up , make sure you guys subscribe to the channel lots more videos to come .
This is gonna make sure that your Lexus is going to be in tip top shape over 300,000 kilometers and going on this and my fiance's Lexus I S 2 50 .
Thank you guys so much .
I'll catch you guys in the next video .