I attached the base boards with two inch brad nails right into the studs .
I was doing the old knuckle knocking trick to find the studs , which is less than optimal .
There's a better way .
My favorite way to find studs in a wall is using a rare earth magnet .
Any magnet will work , but the rare earth magnets work really well .
All you have to do is run it across the wall and where it sticks to the wall , it is found a metallic fastener like a screw or a nail and there is a stud there and to keep the walls from getting marked up too much , I just put a little piece of scotch painters tape on the end and it is a great way to protect your wall .
I'm gonna be painting this , but it will work great that way if you're hanging pictures on a finished wall , and I used this trick to mark out the studs about six inches below the crown molding to make the next step a little bit easier .
Now , the mean nails are gonna hold the board in place .
But adding adhesive ca gives you that belt and suspenders confidence that it's not gonna drop down on your head and we hoisted up the upper board and then I nailed it into place at all those marks that I had just made on the studs .
ॅ करना मत भूलिए ऍम में जाके हाँ कर लीजिये क्योंकि वहाँ पे बहुत अच्छे अच्छे ॅ फॅमिली गत्ता इस जगह के लिए एक सिंगल करता है ।
वो ऍम तो मैं यूस करने वाली हूँ ।
आप सिंगल ॅ या फिर अगर आपके पास कुछ नहीं है ।
ऐसा कुछ नहीं ऍम पहुंॅच और मुँह आपको मिल जाएगा तो मैं पहुंॅच उसके बाद मैं वाइट हूँ कोई डाॅलर लगा सकते हैं ।
But gaps where the vertical boards meet , the base boards should be reduced the best you can .
I use some shims to flush the one by fours up with the base before nailing them in and then I could come back and score them with a box cutter and snap them off and leave the shims in place behind the boards .
I went over the other side of the room and I installed the left edge to define my interior space before moving on .
I recommend marking the layout of your boards on the wall as a last confirmation before installing everything just to make sure that your measurements are good here .
And wouldn't , you know , I totally jacked up one of my measurements .
So I remarked the two boards and made sure everything was evenly spaced and avoided a big mistake in the end .
And then I can mark and label all the vertical boards and cut them down to size all at once .
If you don't get them perfect .
Don't worry , you can fill in any small gaps later .
And now when installing the interior boards , I used a 6 ft level to plumb up the one by four and then stuck it to the wall and nailed it in place at several spots .
You more than likely won't be hitting studs here .
So a good amount of adhesive cack will hold the wood in place .
One of the things I started doing was leveling the board and then marking on both sides of it at the top , middle and bottom .
And that way I had nice reference lines so I could center the one by four on it and I didn't have to check for level once I had the adhesive on and wanted to tack it in place .
We're ready to install the horizontal boards here for the detail .
And I cut two spacers .
Uh These are 16.5 inches for our wall and I also cut the horizontal spacers to fit and they're nice tight fit .
So now I can just use the spacer to butt that straight in .
Just imagine that that's up there .
So we're gonna put these in .
I'm gonna use the 16.5 spaces for the top as well as the bottom and it'll make installation super easy .
And spacers really do take the guesswork out of it and all you have to do is worry about shimming out the boards to be flushed with the verticals .
I use cedar shims for most of the larger gaps , but for smaller gaps , I used a couple pieces of playing cards to shim it out .
And just a tip here , cutting those top boards a little tight will help you with the juggling act of trying to use the spacers on the top and nail the one by four up there all by yourself .
And , but now I could really start seeing how the room would look and I am loving this layout for sure .
The boards are up and they're looking great .
Now , I have to fill all the holes and the seams .
I'm gonna be using some more of the three m high strength small hole repair .
And I'm gonna use it actually in the big tub because they have so many holes .
And I'm gonna also use it to fill the cracks and you want to fill the cracks and the holes first .
That way you can sand everything and get the dust all gone before you start doing your ca I filled in all the gaps and nail holes and went a little .
He so that I knew I could sand them back to flush .
And after it all dried , I could use those sanding sponges on the nail holes to smooth everything out .
But on the joints between the boards , use an electric sander .
It's gonna save you a ton of time here and just keep sanding until you see bare wood on both sides of the joint and then , you know , it's flush .
I finished off the wall prep by clocking all the seams of the trim .
Just try to use as little caulk as possible because you don't want it squeezing out and getting everywhere when you smooth it down with your advanced smoothing tool , your pointer finger .
All right , we're ready to prep for paint and we're gonna be using the Scotch , delicate surface painters tape .
This is specifically made just for this application , accent walls and painting stripes and things on walls .
It is perfect for that .
It has the edge lock technology which seals out the paint to give you a nice crisp and clean line also because it is for delicate services .
You can use it on painted walls after they've been cured for at least 24 hours .
So we're at 36 hours on this wall .
So we're gonna be good .
I'm going to bed it down and then we'll start cutting in and we'll get that nice crisp line when we peel it off .
Now , before starting to put down your tape , make sure that the surface is clean and dry and then start at the top and work your way down .
Now , I like to hold the tape roll tight against the wall to help keep the line straight to help seal the edge .
I came back with a putty knife embedded down the tape , putting some nice pressure on it and the tape should set for 30 to 60 minutes before painting to let that edge lock technology seal tight .
So I used that time to prime all the bare wood on the walls and to tape the top and bottom and do some cutting in .
I used the Scotch blue original on the carpet and I tucked the tape under the baseboard to fully protect it and definitely use the wide tape here for this application .
I use the Scotch blue sharp lines tape on the top to cover up the crown molding though , I realized that the entire line is gonna be hidden from sight because that top board actually sticks out further than the crown molding where they meet .
And before painting the outside lines , we decided to cut in the interior panels and that way Susan could be rolling while I was painting the trim boards .
I had this really cool time lapse of it all , but apparently my camera had other ideas because it cut off one minute into it .
So , and we're done at this point , it had been over an hour .
So I was good to paint the edges over the delicate surface tape .